My recent trip to Paris, was full of incredible food – fresh fruits and vegetables, roasted chicken, specialty sausages, and the cheese – don’t even get me started on the cheese.

But as incredible as my food experiences were in Paris, it is not the most “gluten-free friendly” place to visit. The perfume of fresh baked goods was intoxicating. The bakeries lining the streets with fresh croissants and baguettes seemed to be mocking me. Even I had a hard time keeping a positive attitude amidst the constant reminder of all I couldn’t have.

Luckily my friend and hostess Katie did everything in her power to make the weekend a fun gluten-free travel adventure. She read the French Celiac disease site before I arrived. She set up a dinner party at her place and invited Axel and Valerie, another gluten-free couple. She wanted to experiment in the kitchen with me – resulting in a decadent gluten-free French apple pie.

While France is still not as gluten aware as I found Italy to be, you can still have a fun time with a little bit of research and a good attitude. There is so much to see and do – just try to put blinders on as you pass by all of the bakeries. Here are a few tips and resources for a delicious gluten-free trip to Paris.

Bring a stack of gluten-free travel cards in French – even if you speak the language it’s a handy way for the server to communicate your needs to the chef.

Stick to simple dishes in restaurants – the wine, cheese and sausage I had in Paris was some of the best I’ve ever tasted. For something lighter, salads, omelets and vegetable dishes can usually be prepared safely if you check with your server

Don’t eat out every meal – Instead, visit the grocery store – for regular food and specialty gluten-free products. Naturalia and La Vie Claire are great sources for gluten-free breads, crackers, flours, cookies, etc. Even bigger, mainstream stores such as Monoprix and Casino sometimes have gluten-free products. Katie and I both loved the Valpiform gluten-free Madeleines.

Visit the outdoor markets – I loved exploring the Parisian markets with Katie. We found a great artisanal sausage stand and selected one made with wine and another made with figs. I would have never thought that figs would make a good addition – but the texture and flavor was remarkable!

The owner of this stand told us that lesser quality sausage makers with dust the outside with flour to get the texture of the ‘real’ product. Sure enough when I was in the grocery store, half of the packages listed wheat flour as an ingredient – so again, always read and ask before assuming it’s safe!

Find a gluten-free friendly restaurant – If you tire of the plain dishes or just want a break from the grocery store, make a special trip to a restaurant that understand gluten-free. At the time of my visit there weren’t too many options, but Japanese and vegetarian restaurants were frequently recommended. Guenmai in the 6th arrondissement came up in multiple conversations though I didn’t get a chance to visit.

Try not to focus on the food – You are in Paris!! Really now, enjoy yourself! With sights like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, Mona Lisa, Sacre Coeur, Notre Dame, and Versailles, just to start – who needs a croissant?

For more advice on eating gluten-free in the city of lights –
David Lebovitz – Living the Sweet Life in Paris
Way of the Celiac Traveler

And if you have any tips – please share!

Tarte Tatin, originally uploaded by A Gluten-Free Guide.

Eating gluten-free in Paris proved to be much more challenging than my incredible travels to Italy last year. The French pastries and bread that abound do not offer many gluten-free alternatives. But my friend Katie, an incredible gluten-free hostess, was determined to introduce me to the amazing French food. She took a cooking class the week before my arrival and was determined to find a way to make some of the dishes safe for Ms. Gluten-Free Guide. One of the recipes was for a Tarte Tatin, the French version of apple pie. I am not the biggest apple pie fan, but when she suggested we make a gluten-free version of the French classic, I viewed it as a fun challenge. The actual recipe is surprisingly simple, easy and delicious but it requires a special pan that is safe to use on the stovetop and in the oven. We purchased a Tarte Tatin pan and a plate large enough to serve the pie at the French culinary store 13 a table. For the gluten-free piecrust we used a ready-made gluten-free pastry dough available at the French health food store Naturalia. In the US, I recommend using a gluten-free pie crust made from scratch or from the Gluten-Free Pantry mix. During the holidays you may be able to find a pre-made gluten-free piecrust at Whole Foods. The caramel oozes down into the crust to make it gooey and luscious. Top it with fresh whipped cream or serve warm with vanilla ice cream. This gluten-free version of the French Apple Pie converted even a skeptic like me.

Tarte Tatin Step By Step, originally uploaded by A Gluten-Free Guide.

Gluten-Free Tarte Tatin (French Apple Pie) Recipe

In the tarte tatin pan, heat the sugar over medium without stirring until it becomes caramelized. Once the sugar has caramelized, remove the mould from the heat and add the butter, again without stirring.

Place the apples flat side up (round side in the sugar) in the mould until full. You may need to cut two halves into quarters in order to make sure there are no gaps between the apples.

Cover the pan and cook on the stove for 25 minutes over medium heat.

Remove from heat and let cool. Place the gluten-free piecrust over the apples, tucking under any extra crust.

Bake in 375 degree oven for an additional 25 minutes or until the crust is a golden brown.

Remove pan from oven and let cool for 15 minutes.

Cover with the flat serving dish and flip over – this will allow the caramel to infuse into the crust. Serve warm with fresh whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Le Marais Market Montage, originally uploaded by A Gluten-Free Guide. 

I promise more details of my trip to Paris are soon to come, but it was full of shopping – not for the fashions and handbags that might come immediately to mind, but for cheese, vegetables, sausage, roasted chicken and all other kinds of culinary delights.

Wine and Cheese In Paris, originally uploaded by A Gluten-Free Guide.

The first night of my weekend getaway….

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